Rogue à la Mode | Hawaiian-Style Shirts
I first started making Hawaiian style shirts for my husband back in 2013. At the time I had no idea what I was doing, I just kind of went for it. I picked up a Vogue pattern and just did my best. Five years later I still have that same Vogue pattern, but now I have the knowledge and skill to not just use it, but make improvements upon it. These past two shirts have inspired me to finally design my own men's tailored shirt, as well as a shirtdress for myself.
Both fabrics are 100% cotton broadcloth. Traditionally Aloha or Hawaiian shirts are made with Japanese kabe crepe, which is a rayon based fabric. On the mainland getting rayon broadcloth in "Hawaiian" prints is difficult unless you special order them. And finding the print you want can be even harder.
Laying out pattern pieces. With the pink geometric print I carefully aligned the pieces to keep the pattern pieces balanced and to try my best to align the front closure of the shirt so that the pattern would stay as seamless as possible.
Laying out pattern pieces. The black floral fabric has a more random print so I didn't have to be meticulous about laying out the pattern pieces.
After pattern pieces are cut out, they get re-ironed, any interfacing that is needed gets added, and most edges get finished by the serger.
Sewing the yolk of the shirt
Adding in the top stiching to the back yolk. Stabilizing the neck and arm seams.
Detail of top stiching.
Working on the flat fell seam for the sleeves.
Closing up the collar
Topstitching the collar and closing everything up.
Completed shirt.
Completed shirt.